London Fashion Week opened its doors Thursday with an emotional send-off to one of its most enduring figures, the late Paul Costelloe, whose presence on the runway had been as reliable as the show itself.
The Irish-American designer passed away last November at the age of 80, leaving behind a legacy stretching back to the very first London Fashion Week in 1984. For more than four decades, his romantically elegant collections served as a constant opening act — a living thread connecting the event’s earliest days to the present.
Now, his son William Costelloe carries the torch as creative director of the family brand, which marked the occasion with a simple but stirring message on social media: “A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward.”
Sharing the spotlight on opening day is British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, whose largely unisex creations draw from a rich tapestry of cultural identities. Her inclusion reflects the broader character of a fashion week that has long prided itself on launching the next generation rather than showcasing established giants.
That spirit runs through the week’s full lineup. Harris Reed and Richard Quinn are both returning to the London catwalk, while Burberry will close proceedings on Monday evening in its customary anchor role. Several brands associated with Princess Catherine — among them Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem — will also stage shows, lending a royal touch to the runway.
One notable absence is Jonathan Anderson. The 41-year-old Northern Irish designer had become one of London Fashion Week’s most anticipated names in recent seasons, but his appointment as creative director at Dior last June has left little room for his own label, JW Anderson.
London has watched with some unease as fellow fashion capitals Paris and Milan have attracted bigger names and larger budgets. Yet the city has responded by doubling down on what it does best — discovering and developing fresh talent. The British Fashion Council’s NewGen programme has become a crucial pipeline for emerging designers, helping names like Simone Rocha and Roksanda find their footing before achieving international recognition.
Among this season’s rising stars is Joshua Ewusie, a 27-year-old British designer of Ghanaian heritage presenting his second London Fashion Week show under his label E.W.Usie. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Ewusie received studio support from the King’s Foundation in partnership with Chanel. His new collection reaches back to the 1980s — the decade his mother arrived in London — exploring themes of culture and identity through the bold use of leather.
“There are so many opportunities that London gives to help young brands start,” Ewusie told AFP.
French designer Pauline Dujancourt, who studied at both Paris’s École Duperré and Central Saint Martins, is also showing in London this Sunday. The 31-year-old knitwear specialist acknowledged that Paris remains a dream destination, but said London offers something Paris currently does not — breathing room for newcomers.
“I think people come to London Fashion Week expecting to see newness and younger generations,” she said, “as opposed to Paris and Milan, where it’s more about established houses.”
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